What a cool summer’s day it was on Day Four of UOMO Paris Fashion Week. So muted were the palettes employed in today’s collections, it was easy to miss the vibrant colors displayed in London and Milan. All the designers today remained conservative in their approach to the form of menswear, choosing instead to express themselves via textures and runway atmosphere. Among the French heritage brands there was a dialogue about the ideal manifestation of modern masculinity; Dior Homme blurred the lines between boyhood and gentlemanliness, Hermès proffered a traditional archetype that embraces tasteful color, while Balmain argued most convincingly for the 21st-century man to fully embrace his sexiness — refreshingly, without ever parading scantily clad hunks.

Asian designers remained unparalleled in their vision for haute-utilitarian wear, with Kenzo and Wooyoungmi both referencing extraterrestrial terrains, securing their designs as uniforms for a future where space is but a commute away. Other designers continued the past days’ back and forth about the levers of fashion design — Songzio explored the impact of patterns on the visual lines of an outfit, Etudes Studio drew parallels between a designer’s fabric and an artist’s canvas, while AMI reaffirmed the oft-neglected commercial aspect of the industry by creating a collection out of the everyday man’s wardrobe staples. Thusly a common thread emerged from today’s presentations: in what direction should the definition of menswear evolve? Should it turn outward and influence the very meaning of masculinity, or should it turn inward in ontological and metaphysical exploration? And where better to ask these questions than in the capital of fashion?

KENZO

Not to play too much into racial stereotypes, but it seems no one does utilitarian chic better than Asian designers. Case in point – Kenzo’s Humberto Leon and Carol Lim. Lining the sleeves of jackets and tees with drawstrings on the inseam, thin pocket details that flush neatly on mustard jumpsuits, patchworks of hardy materials like denim, canvas and twill – all these details make for a compelling collection set perfectly against a hostile Lost In Space terrain. With PULL emblazoned across pieces with drawstrings hanging loose, it recalls the speed and energy of a parachute jump – capturing exactly the fuss-free, ready-to-go spirit of this runway offering.
SONGZIO

How do prints affect the lines of an outfit? Songzio’s collection negotiated just that relationship, covering his looks with chaotic brushstrokes that sometimes resembled distorted impressions of trees and leaves, and sometimes the texture of a silkworm’s cocoon. First in warm autumn browns and later in a dull slate and navy, the prints obscured the defined lines of fitted suits, blurring where the jacket ends and the pants begin, melting away lapels and buttons. As though to demonstrate the effect better, the prints disappeared altogether to reveal the clean lines of collarless nehru jackets, roomy pants and shorts, and pea coats with slimmed down collars, and ultimately made clear the designer’s adroit skills in manipulating an outfit’s lines for maximum visual effect.

ETUDES STUDIO

Apropos to their name, the collective behind Etudes Studio took on a breezy interpretation of the modern artist’s wardrobe. While the black portfolios and floppy Van Gogh hats clearly gave away Etudes Studio’s painterly vision, it was the linen-like texture of the fabrics that made the largely grey-white collection seem like a work-in-progress canvas. Loose fitting pants secured at the waist with an exposed drawstring added to the unfinished aesthetic, as did the cropped scarves around the neck, jersey sashes wrapped around the waist like an obi, and wide-sleeved tees thrown over the head like a poncho. DIOR HOMME

In a continuation of his abstract dialogue with the brand’s founder, designer Kris van Assche not only sublimated Christian Dior’s legendary love for flowers by lining the runway with boxes of white roses and also his suits and shirts with floral embroidery, he also reaffirmed the French house’s commitment to luxury with a youthful edge. Assche combined the classic menswear prints of argyle, camouflage, and windowpane checks with the silhouette of the modern man – closely-tailored suiting, bold use of colours yellow orange and red, sporty bomber jackets and trench coats. While zips became a motif for the speedy energy of boyhood, fine materials like ostrich and crocodile leather reminded the audience that the brand remains unapologetically reserved for only the most affluent of men.
WOOYOUNGMI

In the middle of an ornate ballroom of the Intercontinental Hotel Paris, a large round lantern lit up Wooyoungmi’s models like a full moon. In a palette of midnight blues, silver, olive green and what can only be described as moondust, a variety of gossamer suits, silver-plated bomber jackets, and jumpsuits with full-length zips appeared on models encircling the light, as though to tell wax and wane of the lunar cycle. But more than just a poetic tribute to the gentle moon, the harnesses around the shoulder, safety straps crossing the chest, and convenient pocketing details seemed like preparations for a commute there – a prospect perhaps slightly more exciting than the designs were.
BALMAIN

Fierce – in all its Urban Dictionary meanings – cannot begin to describe Olivier Rousteing’s sumptuous collection for Balmain this season, and in fact gives it too little credit. With his signature animal prints (tiger, this time), luxurious textures from weaving leather and fabric, and mastery with the indicators of what’s masculine and feminine, Rousteing created smouldering looks that oozed virility — without showing any skin or muscle. Crochet looked powerful on the women, and equally so even as blazers on men. The looks drew mainly from the shapes, details, and palette of British safari style, and instead of seeming adventurous it looked as if all has been conquered. Lion heads appeared on military jackets like heraldry on a triumphant Lannister general. Fish-tail pleated tops, sheer fabric, and wafer-thin leather shirts softened the masculinity a little, but only to the effect of inviting the eyes to dig deeper under the layers of structured coats and padded jackets. Such an erotic appeal was accentuated by the laced-up gladiator sandals, shirts with lace-up V-neck openings, and the crocheted jackets, all playing to the allure of seeing yet not seeing.HERMÈS

Véronique Nichanian was all smiles as she made her curtain call, and there is ample reason why. Clearly sticking to the grand house’s tradition, her collection for Hermès this summer didn’t veer too far from a coo,l muted palette, slim tailoring that exuded modern elegance without looking pinched, and traditional ensembles of shirts and pants sometimes paired with casual zip-up jackets and other times with flowing trenches or a double-breasted suit jacket that oozed riviera chic. But Nichanian wasn’t all school either – more than one model wore jackets over bare torsos, adorned with a signature scarf around the neck; floral prints appeared over striped blazers; an electric green pair of dress pants looked like it was made from a textured, suede-like fabric. It was no departure from what we expect from and love about Hermès, but why should it?
AMI ALEXANDRE MATTIUSSI

If Alexandre Mattiussi’s goal was to be a friend to the man on the street, he succeeded big time with his collection this summer. Every ensemble on the models who walked casually through a set made to resemble a night market looked like it belonged to your wardrobe. The collection was like a master class in putting new looks together from what you already own – who knew Dad’s track jacket could go so well with the tailored pinstripe dress pants you wear to work? Did we just see a glen plaid suit jacket matching perfectly with trackpants? Instead of coming across as boring, the looks felt endearingly familiar. Focussing on wardrobe essentials and finishing them with beautiful fabric, classy patterns and sharp tailoring was definitely a winning strategy for Mattiussi, and one that will ensure his new stores in Tokyo and London will be flooded with customers.

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All photos by Regis Colin Berthelier and Guillaume Roujas, via NowFashion.com.